Milan - Derby Della Madonina!

Context

My girlfriend and I head off for a weekend in Milan, accompanied by a couple of very good friends, for the Derby! In terms of organisation, it was not easy to find tickets, even though I was ultimately lucky enough to obtain them through a purchase priority. First observation, this derby comes at a price: nearly €200 for a decent seat.

 

Discovering Milan

Here we are, dropped into Milan on Saturday morning with time ahead of us to discover the city before the Milan derby on Sunday evening.

We begin our sightseeing with the Sforza Castle. It was once the city’s fortress and entrance gate, and therefore a major defensive point. The monument is very well preserved and the inner courtyard is free to access. The castle also houses paid museums that we will not visit but which can be a great alternative for art and history enthusiasts. Behind the castle is a vast green space where locals usually spend time. It is pleasant to walk there, but it is not the most beautiful urban park I have seen in my life…

We then head towards the city centre and the famous Piazza del Duomo. This is the postcard image of the city, with the Duomo, the splendid Milan Cathedral, as its centrepiece! The square and its surroundings are very crowded even though it is February. It remains manageable, but you should not be too claustrophobic! Many options are available to discover the cathedral, but you should book at least 1 day in advance! We had planned ahead and booked access to the upper terraces of the monument for €11. This does not give access to the interior, but luckily, the exit route still took us through the inside of the Duomo. We were therefore able to observe the heart of the cathedral, with even a small organ concert!

 

Choose terrace access + cathedral entrance if you want a more complete view of the Duomo than we had, as the interior is also quite impressive, especially the ceiling height and the thickness of the columns! We would have been disappointed not to have seen the inside with our own eyes. The terraces are also a must-see, as the particularity of the Duomo lies in its breathtaking decorative details and refinement. Accessing the terraces is an opportunity to observe up close the ultra-precise work carried out to build it. The many spires pointing towards the sky give the Duomo its unmistakable appearance. The terraces also offer a superb view of the city, including a view of San Siro! Once on the roof, it is also the opportunity to see the Madonnina, the golden statue of the Virgin Mary that stands at the top of the cathedral. The one for whom the city will be torn in two during tomorrow’s derby!

 

The Duomo, the hyper-centre of Milan!

Once we descend from the Duomo, we head towards the Galleria Emanuele II. This is where the most luxurious boutiques in the city are concentrated. Shopping and fashion are not necessarily our cup of tea, but it must be said that this gallery has style. The ceiling height gives the place a majestic atmosphere. The glasswork and the ceiling paintings are also magnificent. In reality, there are very few people in the shops… It must be said that the security staff at the entrance rather discourages you from entering just by their presence. We did not do it (poor man’s complex? laughs), but I believe you have to dare to enter a shop and experience the moment. The Louis Vuitton storefront looks as much like the entrance to a modern art museum as a boutique. But at this level of luxury, you have to put on a show!

Once we cross the gallery, we arrive in front of La Scala, the famous Milan theatre and opera house. Let’s be honest. From the outside, the building is almost insignificant. But the interior is magnificent, making it one of the most prestigious opera houses in Europe. Two options are available to discover La Scala from the inside: a guided visit (€12 per person), or treating yourself to an evening at the opera during a performance. Opera not being our passion, we skipped both options. But I think a performance inside must be something quite unique, even though I know nothing about it… I imagine that for an opera lover, La Scala probably represents what San Siro represents for a football fan like me, and I can only respect that.

End of the sightseeing for the day, we head back to our AirBnb for the weekend and go scouting for dinner. Our choice falls on Pizzium, a rather well-known chain of Italian pizzerias that fully satisfies our taste buds for the occasion, at a reasonable price.

 

Second day of sightseeing and derby day of the Derby della Madonnina!

The next morning, our discovery of the city during this football trip to Milan takes us to the Monumental Cemetery (free access). As surprising as it may seem, it is, in my opinion, the most interesting place to visit in Milan. First, because there is almost nobody there, unlike the Duomo where it is relatively difficult to move around. But also and above all because this place is completely out of the ordinary, and not appreciated at its true value! Very little information about it when preparing your weekend in Milan, and yet… It is a totally unique cemetery, where each tomb is erected as a monument, literally. Most vaults and mausoleums are decorated with monuments averaging between 5 and 8 meters high! The main monument at the entrance is also huge and very aesthetic! We wandered through this monumental and pleasantly tree-lined cemetery for at least two hours, if not more. It must be said that there is an impressive number of funeral monuments belonging to certainly very wealthy Milanese families. We also noticed that, although most monuments are Catholic in spirit, some tombs have more exotic themes, sometimes Egyptian, or even Mayan-inspired for some. The most famous vault is the one representing the Tower of Babel, it is incredibly refined, and we were able to admire it completely alone! We also observed a steampunk-themed tomb. In short, a monumentally original cemetery, definitely worth the visit.

In the early afternoon, we head towards the Navigli district, passing by the Columns of San Lorenzo, which are Roman remains. Navigli is an area of the city that comes alive around a canal. Nothing extraordinary I must say… but it seems to be quite a popular place, with plenty of bars serving Spritz! One last visit to the Duomo at night to admire the cathedral, where groups of supporters gather and already start chanting! We follow them and therefore head towards the stadium!

 

Inter Milan – AC Milan, Derby della Madonnina February 2023

We head towards the stadium early, around 6:30 PM, because 80,000 people going to the same place can become complicated! The metro journey goes well, little waiting, and we arrive at San Siro station around 7:00 PM. A first big moment of the evening occurs when we exit the metro station and look up at this monster of San Siro. It is simply majestuous! No other words. From the outside, it is halfway between a giant container ship with its very distinctive roof, and a spaceship with its famous towers, which I would have loved to use just for the anecdote, but it was not our access route to our seats… Too bad! We locate our entrance gate very easily. A quick snack around the stadium and we enter the Milanese temple! The inside is just as spectacular, it had been a long time since I had been inside such a massive stadium. I think the roof plays a big part in it. Many large stadiums do not have such a massive roof. I made sure to find seats in the stand with only 2 tiers, so that we could have the 3-tier stand in front of us, for an even more grandiose view!

Tonight, one of the most prestigious derbies awaits us. Two historic teams representing a city with monstrous football heritage. Tonight, Inter is hosting, and almost the entire stadium supports the Nerazzurri cause, except for a section of the South Stand where AC Milan ultras are located. The groups are clearly identifiable with their banners. We are just a few meters from the Fossa Dei Leoni, one of the most renowned groups in Milan. AC Milan shirts are also present here and there throughout the stands. The Milan derby is no longer a dangerous derby, and that is a good thing. Everyone can support their team next to their opponent. And that does not prevent the atmosphere.

 

The San Siro / Giuseppe Meazza Experience!

However, Inter’s pre-game show is not at the level of the images I have seen of AC Milan pre-game shows when they host at San Siro. In front of us, in the North Stand, Inter’s Curva Nord presents a magnificent snake tifo (symbol of Inter) covering the entire height and width of the stand. Milan is definitely always about grandeur!

The match begins and Inter overwhelmingly dominates proceedings in a first half where AC Milan players are completely overwhelmed. 1-0 at half-time with a goal from captain Lautaro Martinez, who is literally on fire tonight. The score is flattering for AC Milan at half-time, given the difference in level!

At half-time, I leave the stand and spot a large empty field from the stadium balcony. One can guess that it is the area intended to host Milan’s new stadium in the coming years. It is hard to believe that the decision to demolish this colossus has been made. I have seen arguments stating that it is too old. Of all the stadiums I have visited in Italy and elsewhere, San Siro is far from being the worst! It is actually in very good general condition… Not to mention its historical dimension. Therefore, the decision to demolish it does not seem obvious to me.

In the second half, the balance of power shifts slightly, with Inter Milan in a more passive position, looking to punish on counterattacks. A shame, as they really had the upper hand over the Rossoneri. The Milan Curva Sud pushes their players and AC Milan becomes more proactive, but they lack precision. On Inter’s side, the atmosphere is good but I regret the lack of variety in the chants. I felt like they quickly ran out of ideas. Maybe I was a bit too far from the Curva Nord, which was therefore slightly drowned out by the Curva Sud close to me. Nevertheless, AC Milan’s good intentions in the second half were insufficient to get back into the match. Inter could even have increased the score, but two goals were disallowed by VAR. Final score 1-0 in favour of Inter, who therefore claims this edition of the Derby della Madonnina. A deserved success overall.

The next day, we leave our accommodation and it is the end of our football trip to Milan for this legendary derby!

Thank you Milan.